A city of nearly 3 million, Buenos Aires lies among, what seems to be vast and dry surrounding land. However, in fact, contains 49 neighborhoods within its city. Among these neighborhoods, we opted to reside in the district of Palermo; equivalent to the SoHo of London or New York City with trendy shops and boutique hotels and restaurants. Palermo, the largest neighborhood of Buenos Aires (taking up about 17% of land) was once the richest area in B.A. With about 50 mansions and only 2 bars, the upper-class preferred a quieter area to live. About 15 years ago, a major crisis hit not only the city of Buenos Aires, but Argentina and many countries surrounding it. Economic, social, institutional, educational; you name it, they experienced it. With this drastic downfall, came an expected change where many, once wealthy, families and individuals were suddenly far poorer and forced to sell their mansions in order to escape the recession. Palermo, although still a wealthy area, became more of a retail and dining destination for the Argentinian population. Our hotel, Nuss, a small boutique hotel located on El Salvador was the perfect location for someone wanting to experience something different, yet luxurious. Surrounded by restaurants and clothing stores, we were only a walk away from museums and parks in the area. What to do during the day In such a large city such as Buenos Aires there is plenty to do and explore. The 49 neighborhoods call for plenty of opportunity to learn and discover the city of B.A. We began our day (in B.A.) at about 10am, where we took a tour of the famous Cementerio de la Recoleta, one of the worlds most well-known cemeteries next to Milan and Paris. This cemetery buried the likes of Eva Peron (Evita) and many past Argentinian presidents, among others. We spent between 30 to 40 minutes exploring the intricate designs of each of the tombs; some well-kept and others, not so much. Unlike other cemeteries visited in the past, Recoleta’s tombs carried most caskets above ground, on show for onlookers. The act of underground burial was considered disrespectful to many, and so the bodies were left above ground by families. Our next stop, Plaza de Mayo, was the equivalent of the city center containing beautiful architecture of all sorts. We took a brief moment to stop into the Catedral Metropolitana, an original Catholic church, however now accepts all religions by offering a tribute to each along the walls of the church. Although still available as a prayer location, the church is considered more of a museum for Buenos Aires. The remainder of the square contained government buildings, all different but just as beautiful as the next. A different take on Argentina was a small neighborhood known as Boca build on a railroad. Years ago, considered the “ghetto” of B.A. due to its poorer population. However, a very tight knit community due to their commonality, Boca is now a touristy artistic part of the city, where you can purchase art and various Argentinian trinkets. Although interesting and different, if you are looking to avoid “tourist traps”, I recommend staying away from walking through this area, and instead perhaps just driving through to see the architecture. The final experience on the guided tour was a brief look at the newest part of Buenos Aires, known as the Puerto Madero. Built on the oldest port in the B.A., Puerto Madero is now the newest neighborhood with many high rise apartments and business buildings. Due to its recently built infrastructure, it is now the most expensive neighborhood in B.A. per square kilometer. It is worth driving by this part of Argentina, if only to notice the difference in each neighborhood of the city and how each part has its own history based on various changes in time. One of the most influential women in Argentinian history, Eva Peron married to Juan Peron (president of Argentina at the time) was a lady ahead of her time. During the 1930s and 40s, Evita lead the fight for equal women’s rights and aided in helping orphaned children, with the help from her husband. Throughout her short life, Eva influenced thousands of Argentinian people, but unfortunately died at the age of 33 from ovarian cancer. A memorial, dedicated to her life, is located in Palermo. We spent about 2 hours, walking around what seemed to once be a house, now a museum dedicated to Eva Peron and her life in Buenos Aires. Although mostly in Spanish, the story is told through various video footage as well as pieces of Eva’s life such as articles of clothing, perfumes, certificates and diaries. Buenos Aires captures a beautiful, European like city, in a South American country. Although full of rich history, the city itself is a wonderful place to simply walk around and explore the beautiful parks and greenery surrounding the beautiful architected buildings.
What to do at night With the plenty of restaurants along any road in Buenos Aires, you are sure to find somewhere that will offer a perfectly cooked steak and a nice glass of Malbec. If you find yourself staying Palermo, or are simply seeking a recommendation for a classic Argentinian meal, Don Julio is the place to go. We went for dinner around 8pm (early for most Argentinians, who to opt to eat at 9:30) and the place was already busy. The restaurant was lined wall to wall in wine bottles, signed by individuals who had visited the restaurant, as well as an amazing grill covered a pieces of steak. We had a beautiful table, located on the balcony looking over the first floor of the restaurant. We ordered a nice bottle of Malbec and steak, in true Argentinian fashion. Although delicious, we recommend asking the size of each steak before ordering, as our food came and each of us had a plate of about 15oz of meat... The meal was delicious and we walked back to our hotel by 10pm. Famous to Argentina, the Tango is a historic dance traditionally carried out by two men years ago. Since then, its history has taken a turn and is now performed by both a man and a woman. The woman is the star of the show and is lead by the man throughout the duration of the dance. Another important part of Argentina’s history that is worth seeing. One night we decided to attend a Tango Dinner Show, where guests are seated restaurant style over looking a stage where Tango dancers perform for the audience. The experience is unique to Argentina and worth while if you have the time. Although not necessary to enjoy dinner while you watch, the experience is the chance of a lifetime.
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March 2017
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